Serene Lakes and Roaring River Gorges
I started heading east, away from the Loire and deep into a network of forests. My next destination was to an Aire on Lac des Settons for a few days rest, paddle boarding and swimming. I took a leisurely drive to get there, winding through endless woodlands, vineyards, farmsteads and small towns, with a night parked up alongside a canal in Chaumot, where I enjoyed a beautiful stroll and cold water swim in the adjoining river.
I arrived at the tranquil shores of Lac des Settons around lunchtime and after some more fighting with the camping card, telephone calls to the Aire company and gate dramas, I was in and settled at my home for the next couple of nights. Being lunchtime it was clearly only right to scoff the fresh bread and cheese I had just purchased from the local deli and enjoy the sunshine and views of the lake.
I spent my time here enjoying this peaceful spot, with plenty of swims, walks, a day on the SUP cruising around the lake, and a bike ride around the 15km loop of the lake, stopping for a cold drink, swim and picnic on the way. I met my camping neighbours, a French family who enjoyed a lot of wine and cheese, who kindly invited me to dine with them. Despite my French being appalling and their English non-existent, we had a wonderful night and I even taught their kids to SUP. I did have to point out I wasn’t interested in marrying their cousin though!!
I was sad to leave this area, as it was so picturesque, but it was time to move on and my cheese supplies were dwindling…
A quick stop to resupply and I was on the road again following crystal clear rivers tumbling over tiny rocks, towering tree lined cliffs and alpages full of cute cows with the constant ding ding of their cow bells. I felt like I had been transported to another world entirely from the dusty towns and Châteaus of the Loire Valley. I stayed the night next to a river which provided a well needed cold swim and lay in bed watching a thunder and lightning storm pass overhead that night. The next day I headed higher into the hills to the Haute-Pierre valley, where I drove the twisting roads high up the alpages to a small town and the start of a circular stroll, taking in views of the gorge below, before descending through woodlands and alpages of bell wearing cattle, donkeys and goats. They even have cheese vending machines here - genius!
This whole area is awash with steep gorges cut from the towering cliffs, caves dot the landscape and the source of many rivers can be found. My first river source was the Pontet, which could be found inside a large cavern where a small clear pool sits below a tiny waterfall pouring over the rock and leading to a deep cave beyond. This are is great if you like climbing or bouldering, as there are many routes in the gorge; and I expect caving would be pretty epic here too!
After my walk to the Pontet I climbed back out of the gorge and drove around to the carpark at the source of the Loue. A short walk takes you down to an impressive cave where the Loue gushes out of and cascades over a series of falls, moss and fern laden rocks hug it as it drops to the bright turquoise river below. Unfortunately the walk further down the river was closed but this would be amazing to revisit and swim in those waters. There are plenty of walks from here and throughout the valley well worth a visit.
Finally, the source of the Lison would complete my day, and I headed towards the carpark for the short walk to the cave system and pool below the falls. Alas, there were ‘no swimming’ signs up everywhere, which was disappointing as I had read you could dip here. Regardless I climbed up into the cave system, which is easy to access and from here you could see glistening rocks sparkling like they were covered in diamonds, and clear pools of water where you could see every rock below, deceiving the eye as to the depths of the cold water. From here there are some short walks around the area and I continued up behind the caves to a fairy glen and view point of the Saracen cave, only accessible by experienced climbers, but totally worth the walk to see from below.
All three of these walks were wonderful and provided a fabulous day our chasing the sources of these three rivers and experiencing the stunning caves, grottos and waterfalls that surround them.
Le Frasnois was a short drive south and I arrived early evening into a pretty village where vans could park overnight in its centre. From here a series of lakes were accessible by foot or bike. I headed out on the 4 Lakes Loop the next morning, wanting to visit a series of waterfalls on the Hérisson (the hedgehog falls!) further downstream and to also see the beautiful lakes of the area. I left early walking first around Lac de Narlay. The deep greens and blues of the water looked tempting for a swim but there were lots of fishermen out who I didn’t wish to upset! From here I headed through dense woods towards La Petit Maclu, covered in water lilies and woodlands creating reflections on it’s still waters, and onwards up its side to Lacs du Maclu, and onwards towards the cascades.
The walking had been easy going, with even tracks, plenty of signposting and lots of lovely spots for a picnic. You could even split the walk to do just Lac de Narlay, or mooch up and back the Maclu lakes from a carpark to the north of them. But I headed onwards to the information office at the top of the Cascades du Hérisson and the lure of 7 epic waterfalls…
Or not…
After such a dry spell the waterfalls were mere trickles and the river beds dry enough to walk down. It was disappointing but the walk and scenery were still worth the visit, as was the strawberry tart I ate for lunch at the café! After the 5th non existent waterfall I took a detour and headed up through the woods to the Fromagerie… because cheese makes everything better.
Or not.. it was closed!!
Emptied handed and a little disillusioned I headed back through the pretty countryside and quiet trails to Buttercup for a well earnt cuppa and large meal, as I was famished and exhausted. The walk was around 15miles but you could drive and just do the waterfall route or just the lakes; it would make a nice few days of adventuring around here but I was off to my next spot that night. I’ll be back though!
Just 20minutes away as I was driving south, I came across Le Grand Lac… wow. I’d never seen anything so bright and clear. It looked like something from the Maldives, the water was bright turquoise with a delicate pale blue at the shallows. I had to go for a swim in it; so I found a layby on Google maps and a walkway through a field to a pontoon and off I went kit in hand. The ponton is clearly a local haunt and a family and a few young chaps were enjoying jumping from it into the cool water. I got changed and lowered myself in. The water felt warm under the hot sun and I swam for a while and floated on my back enjoying the blissfulness of the experience. With a heavy heart I bid farewell and hit the road again on my continued route south towards Annecy where I was meeting up with a friend.
I stopped the night on a breathtaking plateau overlooking the winding 35km, man-made Lac de Vouglans. Again the water had that bright emerald and turquoise hue, and after some research I discovered the colour of water in the area is due to the type of rock found in the towering cliffs and mountains of the Jura region. The lake offers a multitude of adventures but alas I was just passing through, but I did check out the Via Ferrata, which made me come out in a cold sweat, so I decided to just enjoy the views from the safety of the viewing platform!
Next stop was Seyssel, in the Auvergne Rhône-Alpes, to wait out a storm and enjoy an Aire for the night to sort water and waste etc. The Rhône weaves its way through this pretty riverside town, with bridges crisscrossing it’s bright blue waters, an impressive dam with water pouring over the top, and kayakers relaunching below drifting in the currents towards the Malourdie Islands. The Aire felt a little prison-esque with tall metal fences surrounding the compound but you were right on the river and a short stroll to the park and swimming pond, which offered a wonderful refreshing bath after a few days on the road. I watched the storm from the safety of my van with a movie, cheese and a bottle of local wine, before being rocked to sleep by the winds.
The next day I drove the 25miles to Annecy where I explored this unique and characterful town, had a swim in the stunning lake, met my friend Paul for a delicious lunch of, you guessed it, cheese – hot cheese this time – and a glass if rose. Annecy is on my extremely highly recommended destination list; it is possibly the prettiest town in France and often called the ‘Venice of the Alps’. It offers art, culture, food, shopping, architecture, inspirational views, swimming, cycling, and anything else you fancy. With the Thiou river passing through the old city and the huge lake surrounded by mountains, the photo opportunities are endless.
The must visit tourist spot is the Palais de l'Isle, a 12th-century castle on an island in the centre of the old town. It served as a prison and courthouse until the French Revolution, before becoming a prison again during World War II.
I could easily have spent a few weeks around Annecy as there is so much to do and see, but after another swim in those tropical looking waters, I headed off to the Plateau des Glières and into the mountains...
Join me next time as I change plans entirely and fall in love with the mountains...
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