Vanlife Road Trip - Part 2: Aira Force and Keswick 18 - 28 June 2021
Once Lorna had headed home from our Ullswater trip, I started mooching towards Keswick to meet up with the gang in a few days time. I had no plan (I know super un-Emma like!) and was happy to just drive around taking the slow road and looking for some epic places to visit, swim and park up.
I had read about a nearby waterfall, which I had been desperate to visit all week but we hadn't had chance to get to. So, I headed in the direction of Aira Force. I pulled in to the National Trust carpark thinking 'aggghhhh; I'll never get Buttercup parked in here'; but after chatting to a lovely chap, he found me a spot to park up. Feeling super chuffed that I could finally use my National Trust membership card and save myself a small fortune on the daily parking fee, I packed my rucksack, grabbed the dogs and headed off on a waterfall adventure.
I headed up through the woodland, the ancient trees towering overhead, eyes wide open on the hunt for a red squirrel; the river tumbled over rocks and around tree trunks as it made its way to Ullswater below. The sun was high in the sky and I was thankful for the shade cast by the trees as I climbed up towards the stunning sight of Aira Force tumbling 20m from a narrow ravine to the rocky pool below. Unfortunately the viewing platform was being rebuilt, so I couldn't get up close and personal to this fall, but it was still awesome to see.
I carried on up the side of the beck towards High Force, taking in all the mini falls on the way, debating which deep plunge pool I would dip in on my way back down. As I emerged out of the tree line, the sun glared down and the dogs and I had a quick break before the climb up Gowbarrow Fell. After a steep climb, a spot of scrambling and much sweating, we made it to the summit, where we were rewarded with stunning views back over Ullswater. I finally had phone reception, so after a very quick call to let Mum know I was alive, we headed back towards the very inviting cool water of Aira Beck.
This was a fabulous walk, which could be made a full circular walk once you reach Gowbarrow, but as I wanted to swim, I descended the same route back to the woodland and waterfalls. The swim in the plunge pool below a small fall was refreshing and even the dogs came in for a dip. The dogs and I headed back down to Buttercup, after hugging a very old tree (!), and paid our £10 to stay the night in the National Trust car park. It was so lovely to be able to stay in this beautiful place and not worry about being moved on in the night, or worrying about safety etc. This was a pilot scheme the National Trust were trialling and it would be great to see this rolled out across the Country.
After a super peaceful night in the carpark, I decided to head up Kirkstone Pass (to the delight of the pack of motorcyclists behind me... sorry!), and just enjoy the awesome views spreading out all around me. I arrived in Ambleside, after a few rather tight and narrow spots on the drive over, but due to Buttercup having such a large bum I couldn't park anywhere. I thought 'never mind, I'll head to Rydal Water for a stroll and grab a coffee at the little van in the woods'... nope, no chance of fitting in there either on this outing. I'll just try the next car park... NOPE... the next... NOPE... Now in Grasmere town centre I manage to squeeze in to a small car park by the garden centre. I get glared at by the car drivers in the carpark, despite the fact I'm well within a bay but overhanging the middle curb, so not causing any issues for others. But it seems a regular issue I seem to face in towns and villages; people don't like large vans... Anyway, after paying an extortionate parking charge for 2 hours; I pop in to the village and find a little café for a well deserved coffee and slice of cake, before heading off to find somewhere to park for the day's adventures. Thirlmere carpark one... nope, car park two... nope, carpark three.............. NOPE!! Eventually I ended up in Keswick. No hope in town either, or by the lake; so I head out towards Derwent Bank and was finally rewarded with a space just big enough in the car park near Nichol End. Yippee!
I locked the van, took a few deep breaths, then grabbed my pack and the dogs and off we ventured down to Derwent Water for a leg stretch and swim.
I love Derwent Water; I spend at least a week here every year; enjoying the epic views, great paddling, stupendous mountains, wonderful eateries and friendly locals. The walking around Derwent is perfect, as it's suitable for everyone, safe for dogs and kids, and there are lots of spots to stop, admire the scenery and have a dip.
After a lovely walk and swim, I felt destressed and it was time to find somewhere to park for the night. I swung Buttercup around the tight bends past Cat Bells car park and the ice cream van, towards a fantastic layby perched on the narrow road below the fells. I was lucky that the layby was empty bar one small car, so pulled in and sat back to enjoy the woodland views and lake beyond from the comfort of my cool van. Later in the evening another van joined me and after pleasantries we went back to our lives on wheels to enjoy a peaceful nights sleep.
The next day the dogs and I ventured back down to the lake for another swim and still on the look out for a red squirrel (eye roll!). The blue sky reflected on the water which was busy with paddle boards, kayaks and pleasure boats cruising around the mini islands that are scattered throughout the lake. We found a quiet spot and enjoyed a fresh swim, picnic and a chill just watching the world go by, before mooching back to the van (via a large hill!) and relaxing with a movie for the night, tucked up safe from the midges circling the van like vultures!
Monday morning after a van hair wash (was going to the shops so wanted to look presentable - see video on FB or IG!), I guided Buttercup back down the twisty lanes to Grange and back along the eastern edge of the lake to Keswick. The river looked low at Grange and driving along I noticed that the lake appeared low in places too. I hadn't noticed much difference on the western side, but as I neared Keswick and the head of the lake I could see that it was substantially lower than previous years. When I arrived at the campsite, I walked down to the edge of the lake and was shocked by the water line being over 20m further out than normal. This would make interesting paddle boarding and swimming, as I'd probably still be only knee deep 100m out...squelchy mud between my toes time!
Just after lunch the gang arrived and we chatted, laughed and relaxed back in to each others company after a longer than normal absence over the past year. Food was eaten, drinks consumed and plans for the week ahead made.
Every year we start our Keswick adventures with a walk around Derwent Water... it's perfect for getting the legs moving, catching up on gossip, letting the dogs have a good run and also a chance for a cheeky pint half way around! A good walk requires a dip of course, and then a yummy BBQ and a relaxing evening of silly games and a glass of fizz.
Wednesday saw a drizzly day and Buttercup had an expensive visit from the mechanic to fix her EHU... Note to self; DO NOT drive away with your van plugged in to the electrics! It's not a cheap mistake to remedy :-( But a lovely chap came out and fixed it, so then I was back online and able to charge all those pesky 240v items you need charging (razor, laptop, Thereagun...) I love a rainy day in the van; it's an excuse to snuggle down under a blanket with the dogs, read a good book and watch the sky turn amazing shades of blue and grey; and the sound of rain on the roof just reminds me of being a little girl in my Granny's caravan.
After my chill day, I borrowed Heidi's kayak and went for a little paddle on the lake; exploring the islands and enjoying a peaceful swim without the dogs needing constant attention! The lake was busy but it was still possible to find a quiet place to dock and have a swim. On the paddle back I was busy laughing at Mark on his sail boat having to paddle with an oar as there wasn't enough wind (!) and enjoying surfing the wake created by the steamers transporting sightseers across the lake to Hawes End.
The next day, the gang got together for our Rydal Water and Grasmere stroll. We do this walk most years, as again it's very accessible for everyone; plus there is an AWESOME fairy tea room on the way! HOWEVER, no one checked whether it was open and there were a lot of groans and near tears when we discovered it was closed for the day... Disheartened, we made our way in to Grasmere for a cream tea; which nearly ended in a fight with the Northerners pronouncing 'scone' incorrectly! The walk resumed as we followed the old Coffin Route, which takes in stunning views of the lakes below, before coming out at Rydal. From here we walked around the southern edge of Rydal Water, with a little swim on the way, and looped back around to the carpark at White Moss. Finally I had my delayed coffee from the man with a van in the woods!
Near the end of the week, some of the gang went off to conquer mountains, whilst Mark and I paddled the whole of Derwent Water on our SUPs, with a little pub stop mid way for a delicious lunch and cold lager (rude not to!). Last year we were able to paddle up the river towards Grange, but this year we couldn't even make it past the footbridge near Great Bay! Paddling up the river to this point took a lot of balancing on the prow of our boards to avoid the fin getting stuck on the river bed... However, it was totally worth it as the wildlife was amazing and we were rewarded with hundreds of geese and their fluffy goslings tottering along the bank and frolicking in the water. We had a swim, did some SUP gymnastics and swam (albeit not voluntarily!) some more, before paddling back to camp for a well earned supper and drink. At camp we had more feathery visitors, the super gorgeous cygnets trailing behind their mum and coming up for snacks, as their dad stood guard keeping an eye on the dogs and demanding food from passers by.
Our final day in Keswick saw us return to my favourite walk, the circular loop around Buttermere... I wonder if my favourite walks are rated on the coffee stops and ice cream vendors?! Buttermere is a beautiful lake, which in my mind is the perfect Lakeland lake, surrounded by fells on three sides and boasting great tumbling waterfalls on it's western side. You are rewarded with views the whole way around, great spots to swim, diverse terrain and a delicious farm café in Buttermere village... highly recommend their pies and ice cream!
And so after a final meal and games of Farkle and Pigs, it was time to move on from the Lake District and head to Northumberland... There were no sad farewells however, as we were all meeting up again in Dunstanburgh for my first ever Northumberland adventure.
I hope you've enjoyed this little venture to my favourite area of the Lakes, and I'll see you in Northumberland soon...
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