Vanlife Road Trip - Part 3: Northumberland 7 - 16 July 2021
WARNING: GRAB A CUPPA, IT'S A LONG ONE!!
'Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee'… This is the sound of me whizzing along the road towards Bellingham, the road is super long and pretty straight, but it resembles a rollercoaster with its many rolling summits and deep unseen bowls. I thought I may take off at one point, so reduced my speed… I didn’t want anything to fall off my shelves; especially books, as they have a tendency to attack me when they fly about! The sheer pleasure of driving this road cheered me endlessly after a few days on my own adjusting to life without the gang and having to spend a small fortune mending my phone. Side note: why advertise a phone as waterproof if you can’t then repair it if it gets water in it (please insert an eye roll/angry face emoji here dear reader!)? Anyway, this road was heaven.
My plan was to mooch up this way in search for a suitable spot to park the night, but despite great views in all directions and a few large laybys, nothing felt quite right. So, I kept on driving. I stopped in Bellingham to get a few groceries and then carried on through windy country lanes towards Kielder Forest. As I came around a bend, blissfully enjoying such top-notch driving conditions, I caught my first site of Kielder Water. I know I overuse it, but WOW. It’s huge! A quick dab of the brakes, last minute indication and tight right hand turn and I was parked at Yarrowmoor by the dam. The sun was starting to turn a beautiful shade of blues and pinks, and it seemed rude not to spend the night in this location. I did a quick check of signage and couldn’t find anything about parking overnight but had read you could stay in the carpark over the bridge. I hopped back in the van and pootled over to Hawkhope carpark, where there were a few vans parked up and a toilet facility. Again after looking at all the signage, I was still confused regards overnight parking, but a lovely chap told me I needed to pay £10 at the meter (cash only) or at the visitor centre on the other side of the lake for a permit. ‘Bummer’ I thought; I didn’t have the cash and the centre would be closed by now. The chap told me the ranger came around in the evening so I could ask his advice. As it happened, I managed to get a spot of 4G and was able to book my parking for the night and next day online. Boom! The ranger came around a few hours later and was so friendly and helpful. He told me I’d be nice and safe there and he’d be around in the middle of the night to check everything was ok, so if I needed help or anything, to just shout for him then. How refreshing to have somewhere so supportive of vanlifers. £10 for the night and then £5 for the day wasn’t cheap but the location was amazing, a safe park up with facilities (I didn’t use them), a stunning view, beautiful sunset and great walks on the doorstep. Beware the midges though; a few did get in the van, so I proceeded to spend 30minutes squishing them; the van has a little death zone now around one light!
The next morning I woke to the sun trying to break through the clouds, so the dogs and I packed up for a hike along the lake. We bimbled along a very well kept track, which was really accessible for all and also provides a cycle way right around the lake (27 miles). We started at Hawkhope car park and headed alone the path through a canopy of tall pine trees and each break in the trees provided a stunning view across the water. I continued my long search for a red squirrel and hoped I may also be lucky enough to glimpse an osprey in the area, which is known for its nesting sites.
My first point of call on the walk was the Wave Chamber… When I first saw the sign for this I was adamant it was some sort of medieval torture chamber! But on closer inspection, it transpired it was built in 1996 by Chris Drury as part of the visual arts project in the forest. It’s actually really clever, the 4m tall stone hut projects the rippling water on the floor and the sounds of the water echo around you as you sit in a pitch black chamber with just visions and sounds of water consuming your senses.
From the chamber I headed back on to the Lakeside Way, following the trail through diverse terrain and many spectacular views. On the way I passed a few pieces of public art that provided futuristic shelters for the traveller enjoying the walk. Not all of them were to my taste, but I couldn’t help appreciate the beauty and ingenuity of Belvedere Shelter. The stainless steel structure sat amongst the grasses and shrubs of the lake, its surroundings reflected in its curved body. The sunlight glittered making the shelter appear super shiny like a spacecraft, before a cloud passed over completely changing the feeling of the structure and the images it reflected.
I continued my walk around to Benny Shank and sat on the pebbly shore eating my lunch as the dogs swam and chased stones. I was hoping to find a circular walk to head back but all the paths marked on my OS map no longer existed. So, I followed a forest track above the treeline and was rewarded with a view of an osprey nest and two adult birds. Alas, I was too far to get a photo but it was amazing to see these majestic birds in their natural habitat. I didn’t want to cause any disturbance so I plodded on back down to retrace my steps back along the Lakeside Way to the van.
I had read that there was some fab mountain biking trails in Kielder; so I drove around the lake to Kielder Castle. Another great place to park, with loads of space and again £10 for the night. There was a clean toilet block, super friendly bike shop (helped sort a rattle I had on Liz), a cool maze and a yummy food wagon! I slept like a log despite the midges, and after walking the boys and grabbing a cheeky bacon butty from the food wagon; I hopped on my bike and headed into the forest. As I was on my own and didn’t know the trails, I decided to just mooch around the blue ‘Osprey’ trail. A beautiful ride through dense woodlands of towering trees, along forest roads, to summits with views back over Kielder Water; then flowing single track descents through acres of ferns and foxgloves and narrow tree lined glens.
After a great few hours exploring on my bike, I returned to the van, grabbed the boys and we set off for a walk around one of the many signposted routes. We chose the 'Wild Walk', a 4.2km circular stroll which takes in the Blakethin Nature Reserve and the viaduct. A really pretty walk through dense woodland and open tracks, taking in stunning views and lots of wildlife. We took a few extra twists and turns to explore a bit more of the forest and river, before clambering back in Buttercup and heading off to find somewhere new and free for the night.
I decided just to drive on through the forest and keep an eye out for a suitable park up.. the roads were narrow but followed a beautiful river through the valley. The next thing I knew, I was in Scotland! I had crossed the border at Deadwater and just carried on the road through Saughtree and up towards Bonchester Bridge. On this road I found that there were a handful of 'Stay the Night' spots as part of the Forestry and Land Scotland's initiative to provide overnight parking for self contained motorhomes and campers, and so headed to a carpark overlooking the Cheviot Hills. A simply stunning park up with amazing views and so so peaceful. It cost me absolutely nothing and I had a fantastic night's sleep.
The next day I decided to mooch a little further up the road to walk the dogs and settle down to a movie or two (the weather had turned!); so I drove a few miles up the road to the Wauchope Forest. Another lovely place to chill and park up for the night. It was off the road in the forest; there were a couple of nice waymarked walks and a pretty stream running below the car park. It wasn't overly busy and only one other vehicle stayed overnight. Again it was free to stay as part of the scheme and felt really safe despite being in the middle of nowhere!
After a lovely relaxing rainy day, a few films, a short walk or two (still no blooming red squirrel sightings!), we drove up to Hawick to get groceries before driving across to Jedburgh and back across the border to Blakehopeburnhaugh, a forest car park at the end of the Kielder Forest Drive. It was quite busy on arrival with walkers, but I found a spot away from the main carpark for Buttercup, and the dogs and I decided to do the short circular walk to Hindhope Linn to see the waterfalls and have a much needed bath! The walk is only 1.25miles and really accessible despite the steps; perfect for a family stroll and picnic by the river. There are safe pools to swim in, and I took a dip in the river just around the corner from the main falls. The water was deep red in colour and made my tan look great! As per everywhere I had been in Northumberland, the scenery was stunning, the water warm and the people I met friendly. I stayed the night here as there were no signs stating it wasn't allowed and I had no one bother me at all. In fact no one came by until around 7am, when walkers started to arrive to tackle part of the Pennine Way which runs through here.
My next stop was near Haltwhistle, where I had booked myself in to the Hadrian's Wall Campsite for a two nights. I drove back down the fun roller coaster road to meet the A69 and mooched across towards the campsite. I was going to be early for check in, so decided to head to Allen Banks and Staward Gorge, a National Trust site near Bardon Mill. The weather was rather mizzly, so I popped on my coat, grabbed the boys and we went for a lovely walk along the River Allen. The boys splashed in the river as I thought what a lovely place it would be to swim and how I'd have to pop back to explore more. It was time to go check in, so I spun Buttercup in the right direction and manoeuvred down the little lanes to a beautifully appointed site with great facilities and super friendly staff. Ducks, chickens and rabbits roamed around the site, and wild birds sat along the fence by my van chattering away. The site was surrounded by fields as far as the eye could see and was so quiet despite the constant stream of motorhomes and Hadrian's wall walkers arriving throughout the afternoon. I spent the afternoon just tidying the van, sorting admin and enjoying a long hot shower! I wanted to use the laundry facilities but I felt that they were a bit pricey for a small domestic machine; so just rinsed out a few items and hung them up in the van to dry.
After a lovely chilled first day, I decided to get up early and head out for a walk along the unbelievably epic Hadrian's Wall. The weather was perfect; the sun shone brightly in the sky, allowing views for miles in all directions. It was only a mile up the lane to a footpath, through a field of cute coos, to get to the wall at Caw Gap. We followed the wall past the trig point at Green Slack and on to the car park at Peel Crag, where a cold cola was definitely well earnt on such a hot day! The dogs and I found some shade to enjoy a drink and snack before we carried on past Milecastle 39 to Sycamore Gap. This is possibly the most famous point on the Wall... Not because something historically significant happened here, but because it featured in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves back in the 90's. In fact, the tree from which it gets its name, is the most photographed tree in the country! The whole route that we walked that day along the wall was stunning and I was surprised at how much of the wall remained so well preserved despite the hundreds of daily walkers and visitors to this section of it. It's wonderful to still be able to get up and close to this unbelievable structure and actually touch history. The views are epic, with forests to the north, hills to the south and Loughs scattered across the landscape amongst the fields being grazed by cows, sheep and heavy horses. I decided to walk back via The Sill but didn't stop as it was busy with walkers finishing their long day on the 84mile coast to coast path that follows the course of the Wall. I headed up a lane towards the old Roman road, which took me across open moorland and lots of inquisitive sheep back to the campsite in time for dinner, a cold beer and a movie to end an awesome day.
After another super long shower (got to make the most of them!) I packed up the van and set off again. I was heading back towards the Lakes but on the way wanted to do a little waterfall chasing and revisit Allen Banks. The sun was shining once again and as I arrived at the National Trust carpark it was busy with walkers and families setting off on their own adventures. I managed to squeeze in and packed my bag with lunch and swim stuff, and off we went. In the sunshine the river looked even more inviting but I wanted to find a quiet spot for a dip away from the picnics.. Spike and Oliver LOVE a picnic!! We followed the waymarked trail through woodlands, nature reserves and over cute bridges until we reached the bridge at Plankey. This was a beautiful spot for a picnic and dip but there were a few people milling around. I got chatting to a couple of gents who were out for a day walk and knew the area well; I walked with them for a few miles discussing the beauty of the area and potential swim spots before they headed up in to the woods to join the upper path back, and I carried along the river looking for the perfect place to jump in. I found a stunning pool below some small falls further up after following a track down to the river. it was clearly a popular spot with locals, as there was the remains of a fire pit and a little camp area. The pool was deep and sat just below a crag which you had to climb down to get to the little beach. Normally I wouldn't swim somewhere so remote on my own, but it felt safe and so in I went... As there was no one around I could shed the clothes and swim kit and just enjoy the feel of the water on my body and the pleasure of being totally at one with nature. The water was cool but not cold and the pool had a gentle current making it a perfect swim spot. If I was with a chum I'd definitely have been diving and jumping in off the rocks as the pool was so deep.
We headed back the way we came finding more lush spots for a dip, even a fantastic swing was present at one clearing... I needed more time here! But I wanted to swim back at thw weir I had visited a few days before. So we made our way there, and after checking for picnickers (!) I got changed and went in for another dip. Oliver and Spike enjoyed chasing stones, as I dived off rocks and swam in the beautifully clear water.
Back at the van I needed to decide where I was going to stay the night as there was no overnight parking at the carpark. So, I decided just to start driving towards the North Pennines to chase some waterfalls I had read about... I ended up in a layby overlooking Newshield Moss, just a short distance outside of Alston. The views were amazing and once the traffic calmed down for the night, it was so peaceful under the dark sky full of stars.
From Alston I got on the B6277 and headed to High Force waterfall. I arrived at the main carpark to find it was a pay and display and you also needed a ticket to access High Force's pool. So if I wanted to swim in the pool at High Force, it was going to cost me £8! This seemed a little steep for just a short walk down to the waterfall; so I bimbled on down to the Bowlees Visitor Centre, which is run by the North Pennines AONB Partnership. You can park here all day for a £4 donation (totally worth this); there are toilets, a little café and amazing walks. I parked up, packed my gear and headed off across the road to the waterfall trail which would take me from Bowlees, past Low Force waterfall, and up the river to view High Force. I wouldn't be able to descend to High Force's pool but there would be so many waterfalls along the way for me to enjoy without the crowds and plenty of pools to swim in.
As soon as I hit the river I was rewarded with the spectacular sight of Low Force. These falls tumble their way over the Whin Sill on the River Tees; where the Wynch Bridge spans the ravine. This narrow suspension bridge was built to allow the lead miners to get to the mines further up in the fells. There's a sign stating one person at a time on the bridge and it certainly has a sway as you cross it! Following the Pennine Way you pass lots of small cascades and deep pools as the river bends and twists through varying landscapes of farmed land, moorland and wild meadows. Eventually you can hear the thundering roar of High Force, and as you poke through the gorse and shrubs, you are rewarded with a view of England's biggest fall, cascading over 21m to the large pool below. It really is something to behold, but in my view not as impressive as Low Force, which in my mind is a prettier waterfall with more of a dramatic appeal.
We walked another mile up stream and perched for a bite to eat, overlooking the tranquil river, no hint at what lay further downstream. The dogs cooled off in the water and then we started to walk back the way we had come to find somewhere for a swim. I stopped at a lovely little pool near a small fall. The water was cool and fast flowing, the pool deep enough to dive in to from the many boulders that lay besides the river, and I managed to swim up under the tumbling water for a mini shower! After a decent respite and a mermaid like lounge in the sun, we continued back to the carpark. I noticed that there was another couple of falls in the other direction from the carpark; so I dumped my bag in the van and we bimbled up a lovely glade to find Gibson's Cave and Summerhill Force. The cave was where an outlaw named William Gibson hid in the 16th century from the local constabulary. Shielded by the fall, locals would bring him food and clothes during his time living there. It's a short walk from the carpark and the waterfall is really pretty. You can clamber across the river and walk behind the fall to the cave when it's not in full spate.
After a day of waterfall chasing, I decided to drive down towards Barnard Castle to a park up I had seen on Park4Night. As I pulled in to the carpark of Egglestone Abbey, I was rewarded with a lovely flat parking (£2 donation which you can pay by text) area and stunning views of this late 12th Century site. The Abbey is certainly worth a visit and you can encompass it in to a circular walk from Barnard Castle via Abbey Bridge. It was a beautiful park up and the sunset behind this great ruin was spectacular.
I left early the next morning as I wanted to get one more day of waterfalls in before heading back to the Lakes. We hit some more lovely narrow roads and headed over the moors to Tan Hill (the highest inn in Britain); it was a bit early to stop, so I took a quick tourist photo and carried on down a gorgeous single track road to Keld, where you can park in a large farm yard in the village for £3 a day; there is also a lovely looking campsite there if you wanted to explore the area for longer. From Keld you can follow the C2C trail through the Upper Swaledale valley, along a wonderfully scenic track across open moorland, farmland and woods, with the crystal clear River Swale meandering below. There is the East Gill Force waterfall at the start of the walk, just over the footbridge, which has a lovely pool suitable for families to splash around safely in, and a large open grass area perfect for picnics. As you continue along the track you will see remnants of the old farming practices in the area, with derelict barns scattered throughout the landscape and beautiful dry stone walls separating the land. I followed the trail to Muker, crossing the beautiful bridge, where kids and dogs were playing in the water, and beyond through the Muker Meadows. These fields are protected and earlier in the year would have been awash with wild flowers and wildlife, but they had just been cut when I passed through, creating winter food for the local cattle and sheep. The village is super quaint with a café, ice cream shop, Swaledale Woollens (gorgeous hand knitted items produced from local wool), and the Farmers Arms, where I was rewarded with a delicious lunch and very yummy locally brewed pint. After eating too much (and possibly shouldn't have had the second pint!), we set off back up the other side of the river following the Pennine Way past more barns, woodlands and views of Kisdon Hill. Less than a kilometre from Keld you will find Kisdon Force. It's a bit of a scramble up and down off the main path, through mossy boulders, pretty crags and slightly precarious muddy banks, but totally worth it. This epic series of waterfalls (Upper and Lower Force) drop just 10m but seem far bigger. There are pools below each fall but the top one is more accessible without having to climb. As I had the dogs, I stuck to the lovely deep and pretty large pool under the Upper Force fall. It was glorious as the sun streaked through the surrounding trees warming the pool, and I swam and dove in to the dark waters over and over, until the dog's barking started to drive me crazy and I decided it was time to scramble back up the slope to the van and head off back to the Lakes.
It was with a heavy heart that I headed off back West after such an amazing time in Northumberland and my quick foray in to Yorkshire. I knew I would be back to Yorkshire though, if only to get a cream team and meet Tony the Pony at Ravenseat Farm (the road to the farm was closed)!... and I would absolutely be revisiting Northumberland to continue my exploration of this stunning county.
An amazing part of my road trip and a highly recommended area to visit. There is so much to see and do. It's very vanlife friendly and the driving is epic (if you like tiny narrow roads like I do!); the history, wildlife and scenery is second to none and I can't wait to visit again soon.
Next time I'm back in Cumbria making use of the luxury of a house, getting SUPpy with it at Coniston, and hunting out more amazing swim spots in the Lake District. I hope you can join me then...
As always, thank you for reading and please do get in touch or leave a comment if you'd like more information on anywhere I went.
Safe travels.
PS. Due to my stupid non waterproof iPhone issues, I have decided I need an actual waterproof camera - so I am fundraising to get myself a GoPro... if anyone would like to, and is able to, donate I'd be super super grateful :-) Thank you xx
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