Vanlife Road Trip - Part 3: Northumberland 29 June - 7 July 2021
Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow... These are the 5 words I would use to explain Northumberland! When we first discussed a road trip to England's sixth largest county last year, I thought, 'oh that'll be nice; somewhere different, a few castles, cold harsh seas and an old dilapidated wall'. Well how wrong was I...
I headed along the A69, moving further from my second favourite county in England, and was pleasantly surprised by the passing countryside and the far reaching views. I was entering a totally different landscape full of history that I knew nothing about. Beautiful stone walls, stacked like an artistic 3D Tetris, separated the countryside in to neat field systems, where fluffy headed sheep grazed and young calves frolicked in the sun under their mother's watchful gaze. I passed quaint villages, each advertising some historical visitor attraction, and watched the glistening water of fast flowing rivers tumble over rocky outcrops, the clear water inviting me to jump in and wallow under the canopy of tall trees towering overhead.
As I skirted around to the north of Newcastle, the landscape changed again... Gone were the rivers and stone walls, and fields of arable crops stretched out to the North Sea beyond. I took a right down a lovely country lane probably not suitable for large vehicles or caravans, and meandered my way across to the Caravan and Camping site at Dunstan Hill. I was early, so decided to carry on to Craster to see my first Northumberland castle. The car park was rammed, but there was a field nearby I could park in all day for £4 and easily walk back in to the village. I debated stopping for a famous Craster smoked kipper, but decided to have a little walk towards Dunstanburgh Castle with the boys. A lovely scenic stroll along the rugged coast, with the ruins of Dunstanburgh rising up on the horizon. Apparently, this castle was built larger than planned as a ‘middle finger’ to King Edward II by Earl Thomas of Lancaster in 1313, although he never actually got to reside in the fort due to his demise in 1322. From the castle, we looped back across fields of sheep and ponies to the van and headed to the campsite that would be home for the next week.
Another lovely Camping and Caravanning Club site, with views over the fields towards the coast and castle. As I drove in, the gang were starting to set up and after the longwinded pitching I go through – oh yes that’s right; I just drive in and tah dah!!!!! – I decided to give the van a good clean and get some admin sorted. Later we all walked through the little woodland next to the site and across the barley fields to the Embleton Bay. WOW… I was definitely not expecting such a long beach of glorious pale soft sand, stretching for miles up towards Banburgh. The dogs all went wild racing around the beach, chasing balls and running in and out of the lapping tide. We walked up the beach towards the castle, the other side from my approach earlier that day, and back through the golf course in time for a drink and dinner. Perfect start to our trip to Northumberland.
Day two at the campsite saw us head out for a long circular walk to Craster, via fields full of sheep and horses. Heidi and Jean queued for kippers as I explored the little art gallery realising I should charge more for my artwork! After a bite to eat, we strolled along the path I took on my first day, to Dunstanburgh Castle. We dropped down to Embleton Bay where I took my first dip in the North Sea, much to the amusement of a gathering crowd of spectators; I even got a little cheer and clap as I exited! The water was warm, but the undercurrent fierce, but I knew I’d be back in the water the next day… Afterwards, we continued along the beach to Low Newton on Sea for a well-deserved pint on the green. This is a super cute fishing village of whitewashed cottages sitting around a green, with a pub making up the terraces of cottages. The sea laps close to the houses with a wall and some dunes protecting them from the onslaught of the North Sea. I could happily live here. We returned to Dustan Hill over rolling sand dunes, past pretty summer beach huts and a lovely nature reserve; the sun breaking through the clouds with the promise of hot summer days to come.
The next day we piled into the cars and headed out to Seahouses, for a walk along the beach to Banburgh Castle. Seahouses is like many seaside towns; many fish and chip shops, some seaside tat, amusement arcades and crazy golf! But the outlook quite different from most. The soft pale sand stretches miles in each direction, with high dunes to one side and the North Sea and the outline of the Farne Islands to the other. In the distance you can make out Holy Island and Banburgh castle standing proud on the horizon. The walk was beautiful and the dogs happily ran around the beach and jumped in the rock pools littering the sand in places. As we arrived in Banburgh the streets were full of people enjoying the glorious sunshine, lounging on the village green, eating ice creams and watching the world go by. We found a pub (we were looking for a café honestly!) and enjoyed a cold beverage to quench our thirst, before consuming a delicious ice cream on the green. What a pretty little village with the imposing castle towering above it. Then of all the places in the world; I bumped in to a dear friend I haven’t seen in years since a Pilates and cooking holiday in Tuscany! What a small world. After a quick catch up with Jane, we headed back the way we had come along the beach, and I managed to drag Heidi and Lorna in the sea for a dip and some wave jumping. I think I’m in love with this coast. Just another perfect day with the gang.
Another glorious sunny day was promised as we drove to Holy Island, timing the tides right to be able to drive across the causeway. The carpark was heaving but once we started walking the crowds thinned out once pass the little local stalls selling yummy bread, cakes and preserves. We headed up to the castle and around the grounds to the old kilns and walled garden; along the sea front stone piles stood precariously on the grass banks and rocky shore. Next we walked over to the stunning Abbey ruins and finally visited the pub for a beer and ice cream (this was becoming a theme!). We were even given a free ice cream; whoop whoop... of course I ate it! The island and village were really quirky and quaint, and the locals super friendly; I’d highly recommend visiting for the day, packing a picnic and just mooching around. Unfortunately, overnight parking isn’t allowed but I believe that there is a campsite should you wish to stay longer. A day was plenty though and the drive back along the coast just beautiful.
Summer is over! The rain is back… we drove to Alnwick and parked in a layby not far from the castle. A walk along the river gave fabulous views of the castle featured in the Harry Potter movies, but alas the majority was undergoing renovations so under scaffolding. A short walk around the fields and we decided to head to town for an afternoon tea. We had been recommended a little café in town, but after finally finding it, it was closed (eye roll!); so, we decided to head through the rain back to the car and head in the direction of camp in search of an open pub or café… However, Alnwick was lovely, and I would definitely revisit sometime to explore the town, gardens and castle properly. Unfortunately, like most of the castles and stately homes in the area, dogs are not permitted, so that’s something to take into consideration on your travels. One place we did go though, was Barter Books. Now this is a book lovers dream. It’s an old station building; beautiful in itself, but FULL of second-hand books. And when I say FULL, I mean FULL! Shelves upon shelves of every genre of book you can think of. You could easily spend a day in here, if not longer, and it is dog friendly. I was very well behaved and didn’t buy any books; my van is overrun with books as it is, but it was such a great experience and somewhere I shall absolutely come back to; think I’ll bring mum!
The sun is back… phew! So today was a sad day as the main bulk of the gang headed off back to their ‘real lives’. I decided to have a bit of a relaxing morning and then wandered down to the beach for a walk, swim and chill with the dogs and a good book in the afternoon. In the evening I headed to Jean and Garth’s for some yummy strawberries and a drink before they started the pack up ready to leave the next day as well.
The day came where I was ‘all by myself ‘ (channelling my inner Bridget) again… the rain came along to reflect my mood of bleakness at being alone after nearly three weeks of company, and I decided to enjoy an extra couple of days at site to get back in the right headspace to venture alone again. It had been an epic trip with my lovely gang; full of laughter, stunning adventures to some awesome spots, silly games, a drink or two, too much ice cream and the joy of being amongst true friends.
So back on the road, just me, the smelly dogs and Buttercup… I’m heading inland for more Northumbrian adventures and, I expect, breath-taking scenery, plus a little hop over the border, some waterfall chasing and wild swimming.
Join me next time to hear where I went and how solo ventures turned out.
Campsite: Dunstan Hill Caravan and Camping Club
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