Rustic Luxury - The Piggery at Southcombe Barn, 6 - 10th May 2022
A few weeks ago, we set off in the van towards Widecombe-in-the-Moor, down twisting lanes bordered by pretty Devon hedgerows, over narrow humpback bridges, past fields of fluffy new-born lambs, over open moorland with the gorse in full flower and into woodlands with carpets of bluebells. Our destination was not to some remote Dartmoor park-up or campsite, but to the Piggery at Southcombe Barn.
George had booked this getaway as a birthday surprise for me (early due to us planning on being on the Southeast coast by now – another story for another day!) and I was so excited to discover exactly where we were going and what it would be like. I had read about the magical Piggery at Southcombe on Canopy and Stars before, whilst researching alternative breaks with outdoor bathtubs (big bucket list thing for me) but had never dreamt I would be heading there for a romantic getaway in early May in glorious sunshine.
We arrived at the gates of Southcombe Barn late Friday afternoon and were warmly welcomed by our hosts Vashti and Tom. After being shown around the cute Piggery and stunning meadow, we were left to settle in and make ourselves at home. And that’s certainly what we did…
The Piggery is like the perfect tiny house; the sort of property I dream of daily, sitting amongst the trees, on my little plot of land, where I’m surrounded by animals and raised veg beds, a little natural pool to dip in and wildflowers scattered throughout the woodlands and meadow. Ahhhh… one day! The old sty's have been left in their raw state and are now used for storage, but after climbing the little stone steps you enter a beautifully designed and crafted cottage with high ceilings, original beams and stone walls mixed with vintage furnishings and luxury fittings. A wood burner dominates the centre of the barn, inviting you to curl up on the sofa with a pot of locally sourced coffee served in a handcrafted mug and a beautiful coffee table style book about the local area from the selection left for visitors to indulge in. Beyond the super comfy and well-dressed bed lies a tucked away bathroom with a freestanding bath taking centre stage just begging to be sunk in to with a glass of wine.
The Piggery has everything you could wish for, including a perfectly sized kitchen area with an original Butler’s sink, copper pipe fittings and a large hob and oven. Everything in the room is perfectly curated, from the dried flowers to the stunning pottery pieces, yet you don’t feel like you can’t touch and move things around; it just instantly feels like home.
We unpacked, had a cuppa tea, and settled into our home for the next few days, we had a table booked at the Rugglestone in a couple of hours’ time, so there was only one thing left to do… jump in the bath! Not quite big enough for two, I kicked George out (don’t worry fans – she’d been in for a while!), grabbed a book from the windowsill and plunged into the deep warm water full of luxury bubbles from the gorgeous natural products provided. I love baths so much, and a deep bath you can totally submerge in, yet comfortably still read your book and drink wine, without drowning, is heaven.
A holler from the other room indicated it was time to drag my butt out of my little heavenly retreat and get ready for dinner.
The walk was just over 10 minutes, despite a slight diversion (never let George navigate…Well, to be fair, you should never ‘follow me’ either!), which led us through the pretty village of Widecombe, past the epic 14th Century Church, known as the ‘Cathedral of the Moors’, and down a little lane to the Rugglestone Inn. If you are looking for a quintessential English countryside village pub, then this traditional tiny Inn is the real deal. You’re welcomed by free ranging hens and ducks, who splash around in the little brook that runs through the grounds, nearby pigs and goats can be found foraging and a friendly dog will probably be lounging peacefully by the open fire. Space inside is tight, and customers line the tiny bar and passageway sipping local ales and chatting about their days. We had a table booked in the ‘lounge’, a room sitting 12 around 3 tables, that overlooks the garden through a deep-set window displaying quirky vintage items. The walls are full of artwork, much of it depicting the famous Widecombe Fair story, and the fireplace showcases a selection of old bottles and memorabilia. There are no table menus, so you join the standing locals in the passageway to study the huge blackboards depicting the day’s offerings before ordering at the bar. I chose the popular steak and stilton pie, and George went for the vegetable enchiladas. The food arrived freshly cooked and smelling divine.
One pie and a glass of Merlot and I was ready for bed. The food, atmosphere and staff were wonderful, and we skipped off full and content. We mooched back via the Church grounds and village green, poking our heads in shop windows, reading about the local history, and checking out van overnight spots. We clambered up the steps to the Piggery, made a cup of tea and fell into bed, for a wonderful night’s sleep.
We woke to the sound of the birds, the sunlight streaming in the Velux windows and a sense of peace surrounding us. We’d been at the Piggery for less than 16 hours and already I felt like I’d totally relaxed and let go of the stresses and heartache of the past months.
George popped out to the van to grab some supplies and returned with a friend in tow… one of the friendly local hens, now named Henrietta, or Hen for short, had decided she too wanted breakfast in the Piggery. For your information, Hen loves blueberries, crusty bread, and cuddles! We made breakfast and hot drinks and lounged on the sofa with Hen for company as we planned the day ahead.
After breakfast, we packed up the cute little hamper with the delicious local supplies that Vashti and Tom had left for us, along with a few other treats, some fizz pop, a picnic rug, the UNO cards, and my art kit, and headed to the wildflower garden.
The wildflower garden is hard to describe in just a few words; the closest I can get is ‘a magical Fairy Glade’. You stroll past the main barn where the family live, through the orchard and down a narrow grassy path towards tall trees, shrubs, and a carpet of geraniums, which were not yet in flower. Through an almost natural archway, you are suddenly transported into another world, which feels so far removed from the simple pleasures of the Piggery only minutes away. The woodland surrounds you, the light bursting through the leafy canopy, creating bright rays of sunshine that make the grass shine all the greens of the colour spectrum and cast an almost glittery haze around the beam of light that falls from the heavens. Amongst the trees a natural spring trickles through the glade, wild garlic lines the banks and wildflowers are in abundance. The purple hue of bluebells mixed with the splashes of bright pink from the campions, create the perfect setting for the main feature of the garden, the Midsummer Meadow Bed.
The bed is romantic, luxurious, quirky, architecturally enticing, artfully created, simple and beautiful. Tucked amongst the wildflowers, the bed, which was handcrafted from a fallen Eucalyptus tree, appears to float in the glade. A canopy of muslin dresses the bed creating shade from the sun and large logs provide bedside tables and a little step up to the comfy mattress. The wind blows through the glade and blossom falls like confetti from above, showering us in delicate pink flowers.
We strolled barefoot, exploring the little paths that weave through the grounds. Wildflowers, whose names I don’t know, create miniature wildlife habitats and the views stretch beyond the glade to the moors and the tips of the local tors. We came across a swing and cargo net strung from a fallen tree, and couldn’t resist a quick play, before heading back to the shade of the bed where we relaxed playing cards and dabbling with watercolours until it was time for some lunch.
The afternoon was spent in much the same manner, just relaxing, and enjoying the simple pleasures derived from a mug of tea from a cast iron tea pot, a walk barefoot on the damp grass, bird song, creating art and watching the colours change as the day progressed.
Late afternoon we packed up and headed back to the Piggery to gather supplies; food, fizz pop, towels, and some tea lights… it was time for dinner and the ultimate bath experience.
The wonderful thing about Southcombe Barn is the multiple settings you can enjoy whilst staying here; from the comfy cosy home comforts of the Piggery to the tranquil Midsummer Meadow Bed, and from the Moor Bed with epic views to the natural pond offering the perfect location for a toe dip or to lounge beside and read. Each location provides another sensory experience to enjoy, but nothing compared to the outside bathing.
As you walk towards the far end of the property, past the pretty pond teaming with wildlife, and the Moor Bed up on the hill, you come across an orchard full of blossom, sporting a deck with two odd coffin shaped galvanised tubs sitting atop. On closer inspection, each tub is connected by two pipes to a fire pit, and a large wheelbarrow of wood sits close to hand. It was time to embrace our inner Firestarter’s and run a hot bath each!
The wood fired baths are ingenious and quite a simple idea but done exceptionally well. As the fire warms the inner coils of the firepit, it draws cold water from the bathtub into the pipes to heat and then pushes the hot water back out into the tub. Slowly over 90minutes, or so, the water is fully heated, and you can enjoy a gloriously hot bath out in the open.
During the rather exhausting bath heating procedure – I had to collect a lot of kindling – George was up at the fire pit near the Moor Bed cooking dinner. The views from up there were breath taking, looking at over Southcombe and Dartmoor, and we could only imagine how amazing it would be to sleep under the stars with that vista to wake up to. Dinner was ready just as the baths were reaching a toasty temperature and we ate our delicious BBQ steak, halloumi and corn on the cob next to the wood fires and drank prosecco, just enjoying the views and sound of the water popping in the pipes as it continued to heat.
After dinner we got changed ready to sink into the bathtubs, but the water had become too hot! So, a few trips to the spring with our buckets and the baths were the perfect temperature.
We slid in, the hot water embracing our skin, the smell of the fresh sage I had scattered in the water rose with the steam, and the cool bubbles from the prosecco slipped down our throats as we lay there enjoying this full sensory experience. As I lay in the bath, I was very aware of the smells and sounds around me, the joy of not having a phone, book, or movie as I lay in the bath opened my mind to everything around me and I felt immersed in nature, despite being in a manmade environment. The fire crackled, the birds sang, the baths popped and the blossom above us gave out a delicate perfume.
The sky slowly began to darken and after another round of cold-water buckets and a quick dip in the pond, we resumed our bathing under the dusky sky. Dusk turned to night and the stars started to twinkle above the blossom canopy and slowly the sky turned an inky blue, scattered with stars as far as the eye could see. The fairy lights came on, the fire glowed and the candles flickered, and we enjoyed a little longer in the baths not wanting to leave the now cooling water or this magical place.
Just before midnight we dragged ourselves out the baths, the water in mine had become too cold to stay in and the fires were dwindling. We strolled back to the Piggery, made a warm drink, and climbed into bed to reminisce on the perfect day we had enjoyed.
Sunday morning brought another beautiful sunny dawn and after deciding we really didn’t fancy leaving our little hideaway, we ditched the idea of a bike ride and had a lazy morning in the barn, enjoyed another bath (honestly, I’d bathe every day if I could!) before heading back to the glade loaded with bedding, food, and water, for a night in the Midsummer Meadow Bed. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the glade, I did some more paintings as I was really enjoying using watercolours which I hadn’t used since my teens, George napped and read on the bed. Later we strolled up to check out the view from the Moor Bed and then headed to the pond to relax, read and paint in the sunshine. We watched the pondlife flitter around, strange creatures that we couldn’t identify intrigued us, and after a bit too much sunshine we returned to the woods to light the fire pit, drink some wine, and enjoy an evening picnic.
There’s something primitive yet mindful about collecting firewood and building a fire; and I enjoyed the task of sourcing the perfect sized kindling and logs from around the glade. The wild garlic gave off its strong yet pleasing aroma as I brushed past it as I scrambled around collecting fallen branches and I watched young rabbits playing chase as they darted in and out of the wildflowers as I pottered about. We sat by the fire enjoying our surroundings and each other’s company, I finished a painting and George read a little until dusk stole the natural light and we cosied in next to the fire and drank a mug of hot chocolate laced with Baileys.
As the fire died down, we climbed up into the super comfy bed and snuggled under the lovely bedding. The stars started to appear, and the bird song slowly eased off, as the dark enveloped the woods, they took on a new aura and the world became peaceful. A rustling in the bushes to the side of the bed startled us in the silence and a young deer, possibly a roe or muntjac but we couldn’t see clearly enough to be sure, leapt through the wildflowers and away from the bed. A little later the eyes of a small predator glistened in the candlelight as it crept across the meadow, slowly inching its way to the bed. No need to fear though, it was only a passing cat who was quite offended that we had taken up residency in what he clearly considered his comfy night-time retreat!
We slept soundly, warm under the snuggly bedding and comfy on the memory foam mattress; the wildlife stayed away and the rain too. The birds sprang to life early, and George woke to enjoy the dawn chorus interspersed with my snoring (sorry George), before hunkering back down for another snooze. After the sun had risen, we made a cup of tea to enjoy in bed and relaxed listening to the world waking around us.
We had very kindly been allowed to stay an extra night, so after breakfast we jumped in the van to drive to George’s dads to check on Max and dog sit until he was back home. We needed some groceries, so we popped to Totnes for a stroll and coffee before returning to Southcombe Barn for another relaxing afternoon and evening. We decided to just enjoy the Piggery after spending so much time out of it; so we lit the wood burner, and then let it die down as we were too hot (!), had another bath, read, chatted, planned future adventures, ate, sipped tea, enjoyed a visit from Hen and her sister Gertrude and soaked up the solitude and escapism from the world outside.
Our final morning dawned, the heavens opened, the rain fell, and the grey sky reflected our mood, as we packed up and said goodbye to one of the most magical, relaxing, and inspiring places I had ever been. It was with a heavy heart that we had to leave but we vowed we would be back again, and we shall forever have the memories and experiences from our time at Southcombe Barn.
I’d like to say a huge thank you to George for making my early birthday so very special and taking me to such a wonderful place and sharing these magical moments with me. Also, a massive thank you to Tom and Vashti for their hospitality and sheer kindness. If you could bottle Tom and Vashti’s personality, kindness, and love of the outdoors, I certainly would; they are two of the nicest people you will ever meet.
And finally, if you ever fancy the perfect rustic, inspiring, magical and romantic retreat going in Devon, then check Southcombe Barn out. I can promise you that you will not be disappointed.
As always, thank you for reading and if you fancy watching the video of our time at Southcombe Barn then please visit George’s YouTube channel, or follow the link below…
The Ultimate Staycation on Dartmoor: https://youtu.be/UWtNSkv0rhA
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