A Solo Adventure through the Loire Valley
A new contract loomed, summer was slipping away from me, and my adventurous spirit was calling. So, after deciding ‘sod the cost, I’m off’, I booked a rather expensive ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff and started planning where I wanted to go. I only had 5 weeks available to me and I knew I wanted to head south to the Pyrenees via epic gorges, lakes and bright blue seas. A plan was formed; I would mooch through France taking the slow road inspiration of Martin Dorey, and wind my way to the Verdon Gorge, on to Carcassonne and into the Pyrenees, before some seaside fun and dune surfing on the west coast.
As usual, spontaneity, nature and a sense of adventure saw me take a slightly different route…
Less than 2hours on French soil I had eaten my breakfast in a large layby overlooking an estuary and done my first shop, consisting of predominantly bread, cheese and charcuterie! Whilst going about these chores I decided I fancied visiting the Loire valley after reading a chapter about Martin’s journey there… the promise of big expansive rivers, châteaux a plenty, and pretty French towns, had lured me to drive through field upon field of corn, past rustic villages sporting large beautifully designed churches towards the infamous river Loire. The drive was long and I saw a pretty tourist sign for Joselline so decided to hanger left and check it out; maybe it was somewhere for me to spend the night, cool off from the already hot day and eat some cheese with a view. I drove down the narrow streets and saw a sign for camping cars (motorhomes to you and me), so pulled in to the carpark designated for visiting motorhomes. I felt a little out of place in Buttercup, but I found a slot, parked up, greeted my fellow travelers with a friendly ‘bonjour’ and took a stroll along the river to the town’s centre and the prominent castle towering over the many folk enjoying lunch and a glass of wine in the sunshine. I strolled around the village, admired the old wooden houses, read about the history and wandered back to the van. I needed water and alas this gorgeous park up did not provide any facilities, so I ate my first lunch of jambon et fromage, and headed back out on the road.
It was late afternoon by the time I rolled in to the Aire at Mauges-sur-Loire; I wasn’t planning on spending my first night in a paid Aire, but I needed water and somewhere safe and comfortable for my first night, and this spot was pretty, had great facilities, was right on the Loire and was cheap! After a few technical issues getting my camping card to work, I was in… I chose a lovely little spot where I could sit on the sofa and watch the world go by with views of the river and pretty town beyond. I soon realised that my neighbours were in fact English, which was weird as I’d not seen another British vehicle all day. It transpired that they were both ex Royal Navy and we got chatting and enjoyed a few glasses of wine. I listened to their adventures to date and they told me places they recommended I visit etc. It was a lovely way to introduce myself to my first solo road trip without dogs for company.
The next day was promising to be hot; the Loire was exceptionally low due to the heatwave and so I decided to grab my bike and cycle down the river to the town of Saint Florent-Le-Vieil, which boasted a stunning Abbey. The ride was really pretty; the cycle route exceptionally well-marked and off road the majority of the way. I saw a red squirrel hanging out on an old trunk covered in fungi, and plenty of birdlife fishing in the water and flitting across the fields that hugged the meandering river. As I came to the end of the cycle route to cross the main road, I took the road over the bridge that spanned the river, where kayakers maneuvered over the small rapids below as they continued their journey west along the Loire. A quick visit to the local tourist office provided me with further information on the many cycle routes in the area and soon I was peddling up a rather substantial hill to the Abbey. God bless the E-bike is all I will say; although I was overtaken by far more powerful electric bikes!
The views however were worth the climb… I stopped briefly at the Abbey to snoop about the courtyard, before I continued around to the front of the church and could view the chateau and the awe-inspiring river below. It appeared to stretch forever in either direction, snaking through towns, cities, and countryside; giving life to the places through which it meandered.
After a breather and many photos, I hopped back on Liz and freewheeled down the hill to the centre of the village once more, before returning on a cycle path that followed the river back upstream on the other side. This route varied greatly and took me further from the river and through flat pastureland, corn fields and small farming hamlets. I found a patch of shade under a young tree and ate my lunch; pondering where I should go next. I arrived back at the van, hot and sweaty and was thankful for the lovely showers provided at the Aire. A little nap, water filled, and facilities utilised; I said cheerio to my friendly neighbours and set off along the Loire to my next stop.
According to Martin’s book, Saumur, was high on the agenda; so I set off in the direction hoping to find a nice park up for the night so I could then get there early the next day to ensure somewhere to park a huge yellow van to visit the château and town. I found a beautiful place to stay enroute right on the river at La Ménitré; the sunset was breathtaking, a rich orange tone spreading over the still water, with just the sound of the clinking masts of the river boats and the distant mooing of the pretty cattle in the nearby fields. I woke refreshed and set off early to the château carpark.
This stunning château sits high above the town and the little island of Île d’Offard, where the Loire and Thouet meet. Constructed in the 10th Century, this castle was designed as a stronghold against Norman attacks, rebuilt by Henry II in the 12th Century before becoming a royal residence for Louis IX in 1227. It’s had a bloodied and varied history, with many iterations to the original building to create further defences and accommodation; it even became a prison in the 1600’s under Napoleon Bonaparte’s command. After strolling around admiring the history and views from the terraces, I mooched down onto the cobbled streets of the pretty town to enjoy a spot of brunch; ok coffee and cake(!), before heading back to Buttercup and driving just out of town to a park up, where for €5 I could stay in a huge camping area next to a rustic restaurant with pretty riverside walks back to town. The owner was extremely friendly and I enjoyed an evening stroll along the river watching wildlife come to life all around me on the banks of the Loire.
Continuing my Château quest, I set off the next day towards Amboise. This historic old market town was once home to the French Royal Court, Mary Queen of Scots, and even Leonardo De Vinci. The medieval Château sits high above the town, with its thick stone walls reaching the town’s streets. On a back street an entrance for the King to enter on his horse is accessible, and a stone ramp winds around the large tower for the King to reach Court without dismounting his trusty steed! After entering through one of the highly fortified entrances, you arrive on an exquisite terrace of manicured gardens and can see the Château in all its glory. Inside, rooms are elegant, as to be expected of a Royal household, and the walls and ceilings are adorned with art. You can climb up to the highest point of the Château, stand on one of the balconies or go even higher to the roof, where the it feels like you can see the whole of the Loire Valley, and house martins nest and swoop around your head. The town itself offers plenty to see and do, with quaint shops, a maze of narrow streets, delicious cafes and eateries, plus beautiful architecture dating back hundreds of years.
After more cake for lunch, I decided I needed a cold swim as the temperature was hot hot hot! I had read about a swim pond not far from Amboise, so set off to find it and enjoy a swim and afternoon reading under a tree. The Baignade Naturelle du Pays de Chambord, is a 1.5ha park with walks, games areas and a beautiful natural swimming pool, filtered by the plants and stones that surround it’s turquoise blue waters. It was busy when I arrived and I had a short wait to get in to the pool area, but it wasn’t too long and cost less than €6 for the day. Soon I was set up under a tree with an iced drink and my book enjoying this little slice of heaven.
As I sat in the glorious sunshine enjoying dips in the pool to cool off, I studied my map trying to decide where to head next. With the heat being so intense and the river so low, I fancied being near water I could dip in, and the shade of towering forests. So off I went in search of some of the azure lakes I had read about in the Morvan Regional Natural Park...
Thank you for reading; please join me next time as I venture through forests, explore endless turquoise waters and go in search of river sources in the gorges of the Haute-Pierre valley.
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