It may be cold outside; but that won't stop me getting in that inviting body of water!
Yes, I may be crazy but I'm addicted to that feeling of sheer pleasure when the cold water creeps over my body... the tingling starts on my inner thighs and moves up my body and then down my arms to my fingers. I know it's really cold when my toes start to tingle (I have little feeling in my feet from a frostbite incident - a story for another time!) and then it's time to get out! But whilst in the water I feel so free, at peace with the world, and all thoughts of pain in my back subsides. All I think about is the feeling of the water, the way my body is reacting to the cold, the giggles and joy of swimming with my friends, and if I'm on my own, I take time just to be at one with the water, paying attention to the motion of the current and the sound of my surroundings.
Over the Autumn and Winter months, I've explored more local bodies of water, enjoying revisiting old favourites and taking a dip at places I've visited but never ventured in to the cool water before. There have been long stretches of river, deep plunge pools, freezing waterfalls, glorious stretches of sandy beaches and salty sea pools; each one offering something a little different, yet each providing that feeling of wellness and joy during every exhilarating swim.
With lockdown 100 (feels like it!) in full force, I've been back to hiking out over the moors to some of my favourite spots to fulfill my addiction... The water temperature has varied between -1 and 12 degrees, with air temperatures dropping below -10 on one occasion... brrrrrr
So sit back, grab a cuppa and visit a few of my favourite swim spots (virtually) that I've been enjoying since Autumn.
Cullever Steps, Okehampton
This is one of my local haunts that I spend a lot of time at all year round. It's a beautiful natural infinity pool, deep enough to swim properly in and even jump or dive in to when the water level is high. There are small trout swimming around your toes, the sound of the water flowing over the rocks, the distance sound of the wind whipping around the hills around you, and the local sheep bimble past giving you a curious look. In the summer you can lounge on the rocks and enjoy the water lapping around you; in the winter the water flows over the rocks creating a strong current and a natural resistance pool.
As a reader of my blog you'll know how much I love this pool, and you can read all about my latest snowy swim at this spot and watch the video of mine and George's little adventure here.
The easiest way to reach Cullever Steps, is to park at the top of the hill by the Ford and walk down the stony path. At the bottom of the path, head directly to your left over the grassland and you will see the pool ahead. If you fancy a longer walk, you can park at Belstone and follow the track past Watchet Hill and Scarey Tor until you reach a junction in the path; turn right here and again right over the open grassland to the pool.
If you fancy another giggle, check out Laura's longest EVER entry in to the water in our video of our weekend of swims (Black Rock and Cullever Steps)!!
Music: Outside by Ikson
Cullever Steps with Laura in the winter sun, and George in the snow!
Black Rock falls, Lydford
This stunning swim spot sits below a natural waterfall which tumbles between giant boulders into a gorgeous clear pool. It's deep enough to jump off the large rock, and makes for a fabulous swimming location all year round. In the summer, the air is filled with the shouts of excited children running around, jumping in the warm water and enjoying picnics by the side of the river. However, in the winter it's a different story; with nothing but the sound of running water for company.
I like to earn my swim by walking here from Prewley, via the spectacular views on top Sourton Tor and the long drag up past Great Nodden. From here I descend to the river below Brat Tor and follow it downstream until you pass an old sheepfold and find this lovely pool. If you can't walk that far, then you can park behind the Dartmoor Inn and enjoy the short stroll across the moor to just above Black Rock, where you can see the pool below and can easily descend down to it.
During our last visit, the water was flowing fast and the pool was deep and fresh. After my standard stylish entry - including trademark cossie bottom twang (no idea why I do that!) and prayer pose - I plunged in to the icy water, swimming quickly across the short length of the pool. The dogs barked, asking 'now what are you doing you idiot?', as I lay under the waterfall until Laura joined me for a swim. A young family walked past shouting a friendly 'hello' over the sound of the rushing water and we laughed and giggled as we splashed around in the deep cold water. It wasn't a long swim but it felt so refreshing and I got out feeling alive; my tense muscles relaxed and ready for the long walk back.
Enjoying the walk to Black Rock falls, Oliver fishing and a swim with Laura
Salmon Leaps, Drewsteignton
Fingle Bridge is like something from a woodland fairy tale; the trees tower above you, slowly moving in the breeze, their branches hanging low and reflecting in the peaty water. In the Autumn the salmon leap up the weirs to swim up steam, as the kayakers head down the rapids to the wild flowing river beyond. The air has the feeling that woodland creatures are observing your every move and if you're lucky enough you'll catch sight of a buzzard hunting for its dinner, a fish leaping from the water or a deer running through the woodland.
I had played in this river as a child but never as an adult, and I can't believe what I was missing. Just above the weir, below the foot bridge, is the most wonderful long stretch of deep water, creating a substantial swimming area, perfect for doing lengths or just frolicking in the water. In the summer, children are found donned in their wetsuits riding the rapids of the weir, and in the winter only insane folk like me are there lowering themselves off the fishing platform in to the peaty depths of this gorgeous section of the River Teign!
You can approach this beautiful stretch of river from a few different routes. There is a stunning circular walk from Fingle Bridge car park (highly recommend the pub for Sunday lunch), taking you up one side of the river, over the footbridge by the weir and back the other side... the views are amazing and it's wonderful to watch the wildlife and kayakers on the river. Be aware that the Hannicombe Wood side is more accessible following a wide track, whereas the other side includes some deep steps cut in to a steep rock face. Another option is to park at Mill End, Dogmarsh Bridge, and follow the river downstream. This is an easy walk in across fields but not as picturesque as the Fingle Bridge route. Finally, you can park at Castle Drogo and follow the footpath down past Hunter's Tor to the weir; there are amazing views across the valley from here but there are a few steep sections on the path.
A swim with Laura during a muddy bike ride and a chilly swim just me and the dogs
Double Waters, Grenofen
Another place I had walked to so many times but never swam at... back in the Autumn, before lockdown, Laura and I put on our hiking boots, grabbed the dogs, a little picnic and headed off for a lovely walk from Grenofen Bridge, up through the woods, to join the West Devon Way and then dropped down to this fabulous swimming area by Tavy Cottage. There you are met by a pebbly beach and a little wooden shelter with seats; the perfect picnic spot. The river is wide and calm here and deep enough to swim happily against the gentle current under the towering trees and granite bank on the other side of the river.
The water felt especially fresh on the day we went in, and we were observed by a group who thought we were totally insane as we yelped as the cold water embraced us. The bed is quite rocky, so water shoes are recommended, but once over the initial rocks you submerge in to the deep water and can swim across the current to the eddy under the rock face. I can imagine in the summer you may find people climbing out to jump in from the rock, but I was content just to reenter the river's flow and swim against the current upstream before turning around and letting the water carry me effortlessly back again. As we left the water to dry off and sit to nibble on our munchies, two horses and riders came down to the water's edge to enjoy a paddle in the cool river. We watched the horses splash and play before they trotted off on their ride home, and we packed up to walk back upstream to the van.
You can do a lovely circular walk by heading back past Double Waters. When you get to the footbridge cross over and follow the path until you see a large rock on your right, climb through the gap in the rocks and then continue upstream until you reach a fenced off property. Here take the right hand track towards Buckator; continue along the river until you reach another junction; again go right to Lower Grenofen. You will then see Grenofenb Bridge and the car park to your right.
A beautiful walk and glorious swim; definitely one to revisit in the spring. On the way we discussed how awesome it would be to rubber tube down this river; another time perhaps...
Laura and me enjoying a chilly swim before a lovely walk back up the river
Vellake Corner, Meldon
I've spoken about this spot before, but it's always so quiet and peaceful, it remains one of my places to just escape to locally. In the summer I'll be found lounging against the rocks with a book and picnic, and in the winter plunging in to this lovely little pool, above the weir, for a chilly chilly dip on my way around the Meldon loop.
It's my closest spot to swim, so perfect for these lockdown days, as it's only a short walk from Prewley Moor. Just follow the wall, keeping it on your left, towards Shelstone Tor; when you get to the little stream you can cross the ford or head to the right to avoid getting your feet wet! Then head left following the sheep tracks, with the Tor to your right. As you summit the mound you are rewarded with beautiful valley views of the reservoir and the river below. The steep climb down isn't for the faint of heart, but there is a small track you can use to traverse the steep climb down to the weir if you head to the left just over the brow of the hill. At the bottom you can cross the river over a little concrete bridge above the weir, where the pool lays to your right.
If you venture up the path towards Black-a-Tor Copse, you will be rewarded with a spectacular fairyland; where among the old twisted trees, the babbling river tumbles over mossy rocks, creating stunning natural waterfalls and the colours and sounds of this magical woodland will just make you feel like you've stepped in to a Tolken novel. After enjoying this natural beauty, I always head back down to my pool for a swim regardless of the weather. In the summer the water level will often drop but I've never not found it deep enough to swim; just be careful you don't get carried over the weir when the river is running fast... Oliver made that mistake once!! In all the time I've been coming here, I've never come across another swimmer or group picnicking (so shhh don't tell anyone!); which makes it the perfect spot to just escape to.
The other evening, my friend and I headed out for a sunset stroll around the loop, enjoying a skinny dip in the inky darkness; the water like a cool cloak wrapping itself around our bodies as we sank in to the deep water from the bank. We exited the cool water, wrapping up warm and grabbing a quick bite of chocolate and a warm drink before we strolled back via the reservoir; the dark all encompassing apart from the steps under our feet illuminated by our torches.
Another lovely day or evening circular walk with so much to see and experience. Enjoy!
Early Autumn swim and the stunning valley view
Venford Falls, Holne
This is one of those places you wouldn't know existed unless someone told you about it or you stumbled across it whilst mooching through the woods along the lower slopes towards the River Dart. Venford Brook runs down to the river from Venford Reservoir, tumbling fast over the fallen trees and rocks obstructing its flow to join the Dart, creating little plunge pools of icy moorland water and a series of spectacular waterfalls. It's somewhere I've always wanted to swim/splash around in but have never got around to.
So one Autumn morning between lockdowns, George, Char, many dogs and I headed off on another wet and windy Dartmoor day to seek out the perfect shower spot. It made for a fun walk in, full of laughter as George decided to walk to the falls in her Dryrobe and water shoes, not overly practical for the moors, and she found herself slipping and sliding on her bum down the wet grass as we bimbled down towards the brook. After much hilarity at her misfortune, I stepped in to a muddy patch to sink up to my knees and fall flat on my face! Typical... it was like that scene out of the Vicar of Dibley!
To get to the falls, head out downstream past the waterworks, you need to follow the path down the steep hill to the right, following the wall down to the brook. There is a narrow track that runs along the brook to the left. Eventually you need to do a little clambering and scrambling to descend a steep bank before following the brook downstream, past inviting pools and pretty falls surrounded by ferns, mossy rocks and tall trees, until you come across the infamous main waterfalls.
The falls cascade over a high drop in to a small pool below before continuing their journey down towards the Dart. The twin falls don't look much from above, but as you drop down to the water's edge below, you can fully admire this wondrous hidden sight.
After our adventures to get to the falls, we quickly donned our cossies and clambered over the sharp rocks to the closest fall; it's icy fingers caressing our skin causing it to sting as if being stabbed with thousands of pins. I ducked my head under the water and gasped as the coldness took my breath away... We splashed around under the falls, trying not to get pushed over by their force before clambering back over the rocks for a well deserved hot drink. This was a truly wonderful experience and it would be great to visit again in the warmer months with a picnic and to explore some of the small plunge pools scattered up and down the brook. Highly recommended but wear sensible shoes and be prepared for a bit of an adventure!
Video here!
Van adventures to Venford and waterfall shower
Shilley Pool, Throwleigh
I first visited this pool back in May last year; enjoying a fabulous summer's day hike from Okehampton, up over Oke Tor and Cosden Hill, before the lovely long descent across the open moors down to Shilley Pool. The sun was blazing down and I arrived exhausted to find loads of families who had walked the short track up to this fabulous family friendly spot with cool boxes and loungers in tow... gutted!
However, my last visit was rather different. A few weeks back, George and I decided to mooch over to the pool for a swim; it was a wet and windy day and after a full on Ninja Warrior course through the rocks and bogs to the pool we arrived at our destination. It was chilly in the wind but after a little debate, we decided as we were all alone to go in in skins... strangely being naked I somehow feel warmer in the cold water... weird I know!
The best thing about this pool is the natural water slide... and with the river in full flow and the water rushing off the moors, it seemed rude not to partake. Note to self, put your gloved hands under your bum if you want to avoid a scratched arse! The water felt great and after 13minutes of swimming and splashing around on the waterslide we thought we'd better get out. It transpired that 13minutes was probably a little too long as it took the rest of the day to warm up... brrrrrr. That's always the biggest risk whilst wild swimming, the after shock. You think you're toasty warm and fine; then suddenly you're shaking like a fish out of water and you think your toes may drop off. So note to self, don't stay in too long, listen to your body and get dressed and get your body moving and blood pumping as soon as you exit the water.
Despite the after shock; this was an awesome day and we made a little video for your viewing pleasure! Just click here to view...
Frolicking in Shilley Pool with George
I hope you've enjoyed visiting some of my lovely local swim spots, albeit virtually. Please do comment on your favourite or any that you would recommend I try out once we can venture further afield again... Thanks for reading and as my friend Dory would say, 'just keep swimming'.
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Keep safe...
What a great read :-) So many magical adventures in some truly beautiful places now roll on summer so we can stay in the water for a little longer lol